In the 1950s, Elizabeth David used her food column in British Vogue to introduce readers to a wondrous European ingredient: spaghetti. Cut to 2021, and the best Italian restaurants in London serve every conceivable variety of pasta, often made in-house, while British diners are familiar with everything from puntarelle to nduja, scamorza to bresaola.Of course, there's the River Cafe, widely.